Exploring The Elusive 4,000 Islands Of Laos By Kayak

The Mekong River is one of the most important and culturally rich rivers in all of Southeast Asia. It begins in China and travels through 6 countries before spilling into the ocean at the Mekong Delta in Southern Vietnam. While many areas of the Mekong River are worth exploring, there is arguably no area more special and worthwhile for paddling lovers than the 4,000 Islands in southern Laos.

The 4,000 Islands, or Si Phan Don as it’s officially named, is a riverine archipelago just north of Laos’ border with Cambodia. You’ll find thousands of islands sprinkled for miles along this wide stretch of the Mekong. Don Det is the most commonly visited island. Its low-key island vibe, riverfront barefoot restaurants, and guided adventure paddling tours make it an incredible destination for every travel-loving paddler.

The 4,000 Islands, and Don Det in particular, are elusive but by no means a secret. This region is a coveted stop for many international backpackers as they travel from Laos to Cambodia and vice versa. The journey to get here, however, involves boats, cramped buses, and sometimes a flight. This arduous journey makes the 4,000 Islands far less frequented than most other iconic destinations in this part of the world. It might be a challenge to get here, but the time and energy are certainly worth it, especially for those who love finding off-the-beaten-path paddling destinations.

Six Reasons Why Every Paddler Needs To Head To 4,000 Islands

1. A Rare Southeast Asian Destination Still Unspoiled By Tour Buses

If you have taken a trip anywhere in Southeast Asia recently then you have likely had to dodge massive crowds of international tourists, and duck under a sea of selfie sticks. The combination of natural beauty, warm weather, and cheap prices make this area of the world wildly popular. If you need a break from the crowds, Laos is the place to do it.

If you want to get where tour buses and novice tourists won’t go, then head to Don Det. This island is the touristic heart of the 4,000 islands. It provides the vast majority of accommodations, but you need to take a ferry and several long buses to get here. This journey helps weed out the masses.

2. An Authentic And Epic Way To Explore The Mekong Delta

The Mekong Delta is an iconic river, and every kayaker who visits Southeast Asia needs to dip a paddle in its waters at least once. There are a few popular places to paddle on the Mekong, but none feels as authentic and fulfilling as a full day of island-hopping in Si Phan Don.

You will see local children playing along the sandy shores, and small boats carrying everything from visitors with motorcycles to cases of beer, or hundreds of giant watermelons. Paddling around other boats and witnessing everyday life along the shores of these islands is an experience you’ll treasure forever.

3. It’s The Perfect Place For Budget-Minded Paddlers

Another big reason to consider taking a trip to the 4,000 Islands, or Laos in general, is the fact that it is very cheap. It is one of the cheapest travel destinations in Asia, and it is also naturally stunning and quite safe.

You can book a paddling adventure for around $50 that includes multiple meals and porterage (I booked my trip with Mr. Mo’s - a great option, with an office right in the heart of Don Det). You can also find riverfront accommodations for less than $20 a night. It’s a wonderful place to unplug from the world, and it’s about half as expensive as the neighboring paddling destination of Thailand.

4. An Adventure The Whole Family Can Enjoy

The Mekong River has many waterfalls and some wild sections, but it can also be a leisurely and enjoyable kayaking trip for the entire family. In fact, on my full-day kayaking tour there were two children under 10. They were each paired with a guide, and had a great time floating down the river and even navigated a few small rapids.

This part of Laos is very peaceful. It can also serve as a wonderful way to educate your young kids about other cultures, while also enjoying some kayaking and time swimming in the river.

5. This Incredible Oasis Might Not Stay Hidden For Long

Another reason why you might want to visit this incredible riverine archipelago sooner rather than later is that it might be destined for some major changes. Several large developments are in the works, mostly by Chinese companies, to build lots of properties nearby. This will likely transform the region into a much busier and less authentic paradise. Just like with every pristine paradise, it will only remain untouched for so long.

6. A Chance To Visit The Widest Waterfall In The World

Lastly, one of the most unique and incredible spots in this archipelago that makes the journey worth it is Khon Phapheng Falls. This waterfall is 35,376 feet wide, making it the widest waterfall in the world.

Khon Phapheng Falls is a nice day trip, and it is also included in the full-day kayaking experience if you book with Mr. Mo’s kayaking excursions. The waterfall is located just a few miles from the Cambodian border and is a very impressive sight.

Travel And Accommodation Tips For Don Det And 4,000 Islands

Book A Kayaking Tour

If you are spending time in Don Det or any of the inhabited 4,000 islands then renting a kayak is easy. While a loop around a few islands, or a paddle to enjoy a stunning sunset is worth renting a kayak for, it’s much better to just book a tour.

Most kayaking tours visit several waterfalls (one of which you can swim in). Some include a lunch on a private island (when I booked with Mr. Mo’s we had a great grilled lunch on the river), and they all include porterage that allows you to enjoy many miles of the Mekong River without having to paddle upstream. The river can move quickly, so it’s always best to not have to fight the current.

Bring Sunscreen From Home

The sun in southern Laos is strong throughout the year. If you spend a day on the Mekong you are going to feel the power of these rays all day long. Sunscreen is essential. While you can find sunscreen in Don Det, I heard several stories of visitors finding the sunscreen ineffective, expired, or both. Bring reliable and effective sunscreen in your luggage so you can avoid a painful sunburn.

Bikes And Boats Are The Way To Go

The 4,000 have very few cars, and you won’t find a single car on Don Det. Therefore, you don’t need to rent a car in this region. Instead, you can easily get around by taking ferries, private water taxis, and bicycles. There are many places to rent bikes for the entire day in Don Det, and they usually cost $5 or less. Just make sure you have a good daypack to carry your belongings.

Only Eat Hot Cooked Foods

The reason Laos is so much cheaper than surrounding countries is that it is still developing its tourist economy. Since this country is still developing, this means its culinary offerings are not always up to the safety standards we are used to in the Western world.

In short - a lot of people get food poisoning when visiting Laos. Make sure you only eat hot cooked foods. Avoid raw vegetables and salads, as well as beverages with ice unless you can confirm the ice is purchased and uses purified water. The last thing you want is to be bedridden in a paddling paradise.

Check If Your Accommodation Has AC

Many accommodations in Don Det and the 4,000 Islands are incredibly cheap. You can find riverfront accommodations for less than $20. Before booking, however, check to see if your property has air conditioning.

In the cooler months, a fan will be fine. In February and beyond, temperatures can reach into the low 100s, which can make sleeping without air conditioning a challenge. The good news is there are several accommodations with air conditioning.

Bring Plenty Of Cash

Many places in Southeast Asia only accept cash, and Laos is no exception. Not only is almost every restaurant and tour company in this area cash-only, but Don Det doesn’t have an ATM. This means you need to have plenty of cash before you arrive or take a trip to the mainland to find an ATM.

Pro Tip: if you take a guided paddling tour, most tour guides will happily bring you to an ATM at some point along the journey if you tell them in advance.

Arrange Ferries And Busses In Advance

The tricky thing about Don Det is that while it isn’t super crowded, almost everyone goes in one of two directions. This means early ferry boats and buses to the Cambodian border fill up. You don’t need to book weeks in advance, or even before you arrive on the island.

Instead, make it a point to secure your ferry and bus trip the day you arrive (or at least 24 hours before you leave). This way you can relax and enjoy your stay and know you have a confirmed ticket onward.

The Overnight Bus Is Rough, Scope Out Cheap Flights

One of the most popular ways to reach Don Det is by an overnight bus from Vientiane - the capital of Laos. For one, this capital city is a bit disappointing and worth skipping. This is especially true if you visit the far superior city of Luang Prabang.

Instead of the grueling 15-hour bus ride with no bathroom breaks and a good chance of having to share a bed with a stranger, opt for a flight to Pakse. If you book in advance you can find a flight from Luang Prabang to Pakse for less than $100. From Pakse, you can take a 3-hour air-conditioned van to the ferry port near Don Det.

Pair This Trip With A Visit To Siem Reap

It can not be mentioned enough that getting to Don Det and the 4,000 is a long and eventful journey. Since you are coming all this way, it can’t hurt to add some more epic adventures to this trip.

One of the best add-ons to a trip to this island oasis is a trip to Siem Reap and the famous Angkor Wat temple complex. You can easily get to the border, get an on-arrival Cambodia visa, and take another (five-hour) shuttle to Siem Reap.

Siem Reap has incredible tour options where you can see lots of the Angkor Wat temples while cruising around in an airconditioned vehicle (I highly recommend Journey Cambodia). Siem Reap also has lots to do, and a brand new international airport that will make your return home easier than if you stay in southern Laos.

When Is The Best Time To Visit The 4,000 Islands?

You can visit Laos and its incredible 4,000 islands region any time of year, but certain times are better than others. One time of year you should avoid visiting Laos is in March and April. While the weather is dry, they start to slash and burn throughout the country. This results in unbearable smokey conditions throughout much of the area, including Luang Prabang.

The Best time to visit Don Det and the 4,000 Islands for a kayaking trip is late October through December. This is the start of the dry season, and the weather is still cool and pleasant. After January the weather starts to heat up. The rainy season is from May through September. There is a lot of rain, but one perk is far fewer tourists.