I bought another used boat and went to buy another Seal Standard cover and happened to notice the Seal Deluxe Cockpit cover for $40 and found all my prayers answered. It has the same non-slip shockcord cover as the Standard, but adds the following features. It appears to be made from the same heavy duty material as river rafts and dry bags, have not had a problem with water seeping through whatsoever. There is a clip on the grab loop for attaching to front deck bungies. Finally there is a nylon strap that is attached to the middle of the deck cover and has an adjustable quick release buckle for encircling the hull to prevent the cover from being pulled off regardless of how fast you drive down the highway.
As Seal makes these in a variety of sizes, and has a fit guide for virtually any kayak ever made, as my other covers wear out or I wind up with a new boat needing a cover it will always be the Seal Deluxe Cockpit Cover. Worth the $10 premium offer the standard Seal Cover, worth ten times the typical cheapie cover.
I purchased a set of Land Sharks to haul the Loon and as the gray patches didn't appear to worsen, I did not bother adding the foam pads. I recently purchased another banana and after the first trip did notice the same type of gray blemish. Back to the foam pads, and I did find a better (neater) of attaching the foam. It is a product called Visual Pursuits Galerie Mount, intended for mounting photographs. It is available in camera stores, marketed by BKA should your local store need to order it. It is available in 8X10 and 11X14 sheets in packs of 6, one 11X14 sheet does 2 saddles, and is a ultra thin polyester film on with contact adhesive both sides, covered with a heavy release paper. This also works well for adding padding in the cockpit or under the front deck. Make a cardboard template of the saddle and cut the pads to size with a scissors or exacta knife. Cut the Galerie Mount from the same template, remove the release paper from one side and press it to the smooth side of the foam, if you gently set it in place you an reposition it (same when applying foam to saddle) and once positioned, apply firm pressure for permanent seal. Repeat the same process on the saddles making sure they are clean and free of 303 or the such. I was able to mount the pads on the saddles mounted on the rack on top of my mini van. The whole process takes about 15 to 30 minutes and is much simpler than my instructions may lead you to believe.
The Land Sharks do hold the kayak extremely securely, had the kayak on the rack for a month long trip to Florida, with some warm sunshine without any oil canning at all. I agree with the previous poster ti would be advisable to keep the hull and pads as clean as possible and those with composit hulls may still want to use a soft cloth between the pad and the boat. My brother just purchased a set of Rode Gear Universal Saddles for his Surburban factory rack and we will be padding those this week. These appear to be made by Yakima (store brand?) with wide U-bolts and only $60 for the 4 saddles complete with straps and front and rear tie-downs included. Not much more than the foam blocks and a muchmore secure way to carry a kayak.
Back to the Sky, fun boat, a little faster and better glide than the Zydeco, and able to handle my 220# nephew, though I would advise him to get a slightly bigger boat if he wanted to carry any gear, and it would be his only boat. Lacks deck rigging and a drain plug (which I will add myself for around $10) but for a $350 boat a real bargain (I bought a like new rental unit for $230, put more scratches on it myself in the first 2 paddles, a bargain I couldn't pass up). 9 out of 10? There are no 10s.
All plastic boats will dent, warp, or oil can if improperly stored on the keel or tightened too tightly in the car especially on the foam blocks. Using saddles that only contact the hull at the chines allow stability on the rack and virtually eliminate the possibility of oil canning. Had my Loon 138 and Dagger Zydeco on top of my van for three weeks this winter during a Florida trip this year, without the evidence of any denting even though one boat or the other was often on the rack for several days at a time. Without having to over tighten the tie downs the boats were extremely stable even at 75MPH. The Loon is actually less prone to denting than other boats I have owned by Perception, Walden, Hydra, and Dagger. Always store the boats on their side or end and never on the keel. Check the keel line when accepting the boat from a dealer, get it out of the shipping bag. If they've stored the boats in a pile with the keel across another boat(I've seen this)a new boat may be warped or dented as you take it out the door. Over tightening on v foam blocks can cause dents before you even get home.
Now the reason for this review, if your boat is dented there are several possible cures, best results as soon as dent is found. Turn boat upside down on a warm sunny day, often minor dents that haven't been left to set will often cure them self. Stubborn dents can often be urged along with a hairdryer in cool weather. For real stubborn dents in the cockpit area you can use a firing strip (1X3) whose length is several inches wider than the cockpit rim. Measure the distance to the center of the keel, estimate the depth of the dent+1/2 inch and cut another piece to the total of the two measurements and wedge into the center of the dent at the keel line. This should cause the dent to bulge slightly and follow directions above for minor dents. Sorry for the long winded post, but this problem has been brought up several times. BYW the Loon is my favorite of the 4 boats I currently own, used for wildlife photography, camping, fishing, and just to get on the water to paddle. If they come out with a 138 Elite, like they have with the 111, at about 40 pounds I'll probably sell of a couple of my boats. At nearly 60#s with rudder and other rigging I've added, the weight of the 138 is my only real complaint that wouldn't allow a 10 rating.